Hiking the Pacific Trail Part VIII

Hi all-

9/22-9/29
Days hiked: 7
Days off: 1
Miles hiked this section: 120
Total PCT miles hiked: 1504
Total PCT miles left to hike: 1159
Pounds lost: 23

This next section, I'll cross over the halfway point in my hike! I have 450 miles left to go to get to Soda Springs, and then 709 miles of Southern California (the desert section) left to do next April and May. It amazes me when I realize that most thruhikers will have finished all 2663 miles of the trail by now, in one continuous hike. It makes me tired just thinking about it.

I started out from Ashland, heading south. It feels different heading south -- feels like I'm going the wrong way. The sun is always in my face, since it's a little bit south in the sky at this time of the year. The only long distance hikers still on the trail this far south from Canada are, like me, making up sections that they decided to skip because of the smoke and wildfires. I've only met 3 others doing this, and a few section hikers. A small handful of hunters. That's it for company. It's a very different experience from up north.

I've seen two small black bears since leaving Ashland, a few falcons gliding on the thermals, some non-poisonous snakes, and lots of deer and grouse. The black bear sightings were cool. I got to within 15 feet or so before they realized that I was there and ran off into the woods. I've been hearing elk bugling out in the woods, as I walk during the day. At first I thought that some particularly untalented young kid had brought a trumpet into the woods and was practicing trying to blow a single wavering note. Eventually a pattern emerged, and I realized that the sound wasn't coming from just one location...so it had to be elk. It was cool.Crossing over into northern California, I saw in the border register that my friend Billy Goat had signed in just a few hours ahead of me, going south. I managed to catch up to him by the next morning, and we hiked together for a while, so I had a little company.

I love the northern CA terrain -- very dry, open and silty/dusty trail for the most part, lots of ridge walks and great views. There hasn't been too much drastic elevation gain or loss each day, so I'm managing to do 20+ miles a day without much problem. The only downside is that many of the water sources listed in my guidebook are dry by this time in the season, but I don't know which ones until I get there. This was a challenge on the day I walked the 16 miles into Etna, CA (where I am now, taking a day off). There was a flowing water source about 2 miles into my hike, but I didn't tank up because the guidebook said I'd have 4 more water sources before I hit the Etna road. Lies! They were all dry.

So I arrived at the road dehydrated and exhausted, facing a 15 mile road walk into town if I didn't get a hitch into town. I ended up getting a ride like I always do, but it took almost two hours before someone came along who was going toward Etna.

It was a little scary to be so thirsty, but everything worked out like it always does. After the first 65 miles, the PCT was routed right through Seiad Valley, a tiny little town with a post office, cafe and general store. The road that ran through the town was lined with blackberry bushes, all of which were loaded with ripe berries. They tasted like coconut, they were so sweet. I ate so many that by the time I sat down at the Seiad Cafe with my fingers stained purple and my legs bloodied by the brambles, I couldn't bear the thought of eating. The berries were worth the scratches. I couldn't understand why the locals hadn't picked the bushes clean. There were clusters of berries that had dehydrated right on the vine. Someone could have made a fortune if they bagged them and sold them as dried fruit.

The hike between Seiad Valley and Etna was hot and especially dry, with a small wildfire burning only two miles from the trail as I hiked out of the valley. It was super-smoky for about 20 miles, but it tapered off once I got closer to Etna. At least the sunsets were spectacular because of the smoke pall. The upside of the trail being dusty is that I can clearly see all kinds of animal tracks in the trail bed.

I followed a set of bear tracks that were so clearly imprinted in the dust that I could see the crevices in the skin of the rear paws. I got some great pictures of the tracks, and I eventually followed them to the bear itself. No cougar tracks yet. I'm still patiently waiting to see a cougar.

My husband Kevin is coming home this Wednesday, and he's meeting me at my next trail town. We'll hike together from Castella to Burney, about 83 miles. I'm so excited to be reunited with him, and for him to experience what I've been doing all summer.

Until next time...
Dawn